Who Has the Power?

A lot of people are disenfranchised with the idea of fashion because they believe a group of elitist designers and “wearers” are (unjustifiably) in charge of what’s “in.” Admittedly, I felt the same way for a number of years (and I imagine anyone not in the coolest of high school cliques felt this way for some time). Even recently, I eschewed the merits of labels and designers, calling for an “unbiased” view on fashion.

This is an unfortunate situation. A large number of people develop this worldview, and it’s very difficult to change that mindset. The way to convince people that fashion isn’t some oppressive oligarchy is not to tout the skills of top designers, to explain why they get paid huge sums of money for their designs. Rather, we should invite people to consider the question they’ve assumed the answer to: who is really in control of the fashion world?

Consider the people at “the top,” the internationally-known designers. In general, these are not the people designing the jeans and tops you’re buying (even at high end department stores or independent clothiers). Take a look at this runway collection from Spring 2008 by John Galliano:

Christian Dior Spring 2008

Nearly all of these things are unwearable (I think 25, 27, 34 and 35 could be reasonably worn). This is normal! These designers often end up doing more art than practical fashion, and their influence is greatest in shaping very general trends. For example, nearly every woman in this line is wearing long, sleek gloves. This is a very tangible, applicable fashion idea which then can take hold in the coming year.

Even the ready-to-wear collections are (by design) over the top and, while wearable, not necessarily marketable or even fashionable. Check out this Spring 2009 ready-to-wear set by Sophia Kokosalaki:

Sophia Kokosalaki Spring 2009

Again, while you probably won’t see many (if any) of these outfits on the street next year, you will see themes and pieces become part of the fashion scene. In this case, we have the strappy “gladiator” style shoes, dark gold accenting, high-waisted skirts, and very sharp lines at the bottom of dresses (very straight, though sometimes asymmetric cuts).

These top designers do not necessarily get to decide which of their design elements becomes the next big trend in fashion (though inundation can often be effective). Rather, fashion companies employ a host of designers who research market trends and determine exactly how to mold the extravagant designs of the “big names” into garments people can actually wear in their daily lives, and more importantly, will spend their money on.

This editing process distills the basic design thoughts (wider skirts, higher necklines, thinner belts, three-button suits versus two-button suits, etc.) and integrates them into the existing fashion environment. In general, people’s tastes do not change so drastically (which is why people often thing fashion shows look so ridiculous), and new ideas must be slowly merged into and replace old ones. Since this is, in reality, a business decision, it is rare that the person designing what you wear is the same person who’s name appears on the tag.

Now, in the end, it is the business viability which determines what is bought and sold. This, of course, is dictated by the overall fashion tastes of the sale demographic. If women 18-25 are predisposed currently to high platform shoes, high platform shoes (which are present in some designers collections) will be selected by editors and lower level designers, and thus become “in.” This cycle has a feedback mechanism, as what is “in” becomes popular, more design firms will include the item until it is a full-blown fashion trend.

The process by which businesses determine the current fashion outlook of a population obviously must vary, but the central fact is that the population has a current worldview which heavily restricts what is economically feasible. I think that this is the real reason that fashion seems so immovable and so difficult to individualize within. The money goes where the average person thinks, and the average doesn’t change quickly, no matter how much you change. It takes a concerted effort of a large group of people to change the norm. If you’re already part of that group, you’re probably not even thinking about it. If you aren’t, you may be upset that fashion isn’t changing the way you think it should.

It then becomes very easy to pick out the designers (really the design companies) which are touting the current public trends, because they are individuals. It’s very difficult to blame, or express distaste with the nebulous collective, and thus our ire is, in my opinion, unfairly directed.

-III